Day 5 - Brussels to Ghent to Bruges

Brussels is well known for its Royal Museum and Rene Magritte Museum as well as it's gallery scene showcasing both fine artists and cartoonists. We had a 2 mile walk to the museum and along the way we enjoyed the city sites.

The Royal Museum had some nice pieces, but the painting I was most interested in seeing was "The Death of Marat" by David. We had made our way through the entire gallery and sadly could not find it. There was a wing that was closed for renovation and with my luck, that would be where David's painting was. I was so sad, but with the last bit of hope, I asked a guard where I might find the painting. He directed us to a gallery that was so easily overlooked. How could they "hide" this painting? I was very happy to meet this painting in person. It had been the focus of much study in college.

Although my guide book stated we should go to the Masters Gallery next, the docents INSISTED we go to the Magritte Museum next. The Museum was 3 levels. Each level focused on a certain period of his life. The exhibition was in chronological order, so you really felt like you understood his evolution as an artist. If you only have time to go to one museum in Brussels, go straight to the Magritte Museum.

It was now onto the Masters Gallery which had a nice Picasso and Georges Seurat. The museum made its way through multiple levels. It was confusing and disorienting. By this point, we all just wanted to find the way out. Other visitors seemed just as confused. We finally found an elevator. It was such a long ride up to ground level that the elevator had chairs.

We had lunch at a deli type place that had lots of locals enjoying their lunch. They were also making overflowing trays of Pomme Frites. The deli section was filled with mystery meats which were meant to be deep fried once selected. Matt and I shied away from the mystery meat choosing to share a "burger sandwhich" with pomme frites. Neither of us really know what kind of meat we were eating. The pomme frites were delicious and Mom actually put down her granola bar to have some fries. After lunch, we had waffles for dessert from a little street vendor. It was now time to say goodbye to Brussels.

It was a 45 minute drive to our next destination of Ghent. Ghent is where the Ghent Alter Piece resides also known as the Adoration of the Mystic Lamb. I have dreamed of seeing this since I studied in college and learned of it history. It really is a miracle that it has survived so that we can still see it today. I knew that the alter piece was currently undergoing a 7 year restoration, beginning in 2010 and ending in 2017. Those panels currently being restored were on display at the MOMA where you could actually watch the restoration project. This was the part of the trip I was most looking forward to.

We made our way to Saint Bavo Cathedral, only to find it covered in scaffolding. This is an on-going theme of our travels and has now become a running joke.

The Ghent Altarpiece is a very large and complex early 15th century Early Flemish polyptych panel painting done by Jan van Eyck and finished by his brother Huber van Eyck in 1432. There is much debate as to what each brother painted. The altarpiece is composed of 12 panels on the front, eight of which are hinged shutters. The front only had two panels out for restoration.The 8 panels on the on the back of the hinged doors were all out for restorations. The alter piece was only opened for special occassions. When it was closed, it depicted the story of the Annunciation.

Once restoration is complete, there will be a big debate as to where the alter piece should reside. Many want it to stay at Saint Bavo's but others want it protected from climate as well as being able to evacuate it to safety if necessary. At the MOMA, we watched as one small section was meticulously worked on. It was very tedious work. 

By the time we finished watching the restoration process, it was dark and we had a long walk back to the car.

It was now onto Bruges, one of my favorite cities. We stayed in Old Town and once settled headed out to find a local hangout that was recommended. It was a long walk over canals, but we finally made it. The place felt like a small hunting lodge and served up some excellent pasta and soup as well as some great beers. We shared a table with two American college students from Washington DC who were currently studying in Zurich. The girls were alot of fun to chat up. When they asked Matt what he did for a living, he said, "I work for a fruit company in Cupertino." They did not get the joke.

After dinner, we made the long walk back to our hotel. The streets were empty, but the Christmas lights made the walk home a little more festive. Total walking for the day: 9.5 miles....Good Job Mom!